The most popular abrasive used for stropping is micro fine green honing compound. Another popular compound is “Yellowstone” which I have never used. I have no idea what the actual abrasive is in Yellowstone, but some people swear by it. Of course it depends on what you want out of an edge. Most kitchen knife touchups start and end on a 325 DMT. Cardboard is a surprisingly-decent option when leather isn’t available.
For a long time I just used some leather without any compound and it worked fine. Using compound just helps to get a fine polish faster. I grab a buffing wheel and load it up with compound.
How To Strop A Knife With A Belt: A Complete Guide
They seem really confusing and seen that you can you a clean strop also. If anyone can explain this to me that would be great. All of these abrasives work very differently ,and are focused on certain metals.
Black is the only phase of stropping for field knives that many people use as. It is a hard grit, used to make this blade what most would consider “sharp enough” when you start with your dull blade. …that you can lay on a hard surface and gently sweep your blade across. I have used the Tormek paste and it’s pretty effective but when it hardens it forms a lumpy residue if you don’t clean it off. I also like Blue Velvet https://nationalservant.com/shop-for-axes-hatchets-at-woodcraft-com/ sold by John Dunkle.
The process is the same on any stropping surface, with or without a honing compound. Combine this 4 inch honing strop with your favorite sharpening compound to keep your wood carving knives razor sharp. Many knife sharpening kits come with a mounted strop, which is a piece of smooth grain premium leather that is mounted on top of a wooden block. These mounted strops are usually sold together with a stropping compound and can make a good investment if you are planning on doing a lot of knife sharpening.
Once the edge becomes too obtuse, then it is time to resharpen. If you are sharpening a chisel I wouldn’t bother with the stropping compound anyway and I would go straight to a plain strop. And in that case you are just removing wire remnants that you cannot even feel – leaving the edge formed by as fine an abrasive stone as you wish.
The second is to enable fine sharpening at the edge of a curved tool. They don’t clog up the strop like the solid block compounds. Note that one compound color matches with one strop surface. If you use black on a piece of leather, you won’t later use white on that same strip. For basic field knife maintenance, many people buy one paddle like this, load it with black compound, leave the smooth side bare, and they’re done. No need for other strops with other levels of compound.
Scratches in which the , green compound ,no matter how small the micron size, cannot overcome and remove. Repeating , the chromium oxide does not come near , a.5 um size. BTW. If polish is what you need there are pure white aluminum oxide still is that are quite fine in particular size. It polishes and puts out a different t color profile than chromium oxide.
If you are stropping with compound, you are wasting time with the stone. Japanese style wood workers I know do not strop their tools, if they go as fine as 10,000, that is it. Because of their economy and practicality, wax bars are a go-to format for many sharpeners. Simply rub it onto almost any surface, and you’re ready to go. We carry Green Honing Compound, which is the most popular of all our honing compounds.